This is legal but know what you are doing if you are going this route as you need bolt splices insulated with rubber tape. Inside the house I spliced the THWN into 6/3wG NM-B.You are correct you need TH WN as underground conduit is a wet location by code. I ran underground conduit from the house to the detached garage.(2 hots to the breaker, neutral and ground to the ground bus of the main box) First off, you need 2 open slots in the main breaker (not 4) for the 60amp double pole breaker.I did a 60 amp sub install in my garage a few years ago to upgrade the 4 socket fuse box that was there before. If somehow you do, the main will trip and protect the panel.įYI, unless you have electric heat and electric hot water (or some other big load) very few houses ever get anywhere near 200 amps (48,000 watts) continuous load. Unless you have every circuit loaded to capacity and all devices on at the same time that wont be a problem. The total combined rating of all the breakers in the box can be, and often is, a lot more than the main breaker rating. The breaker for each circuit needs to be sized to the wiring and equipment on that circuit. NO, the total amount of all the breakers in the panel has nothing to do with the size of the main. I'm sure your codes will be different and you should look them up on line. Last point, in our area, running a conduit 5" below surface in not allowed - just so you know. If it's exposed, you'll need armourclad wire or steel conduit. the 20amp solution was far cheaper in the end but that dictates you must run 12/2 to the outlets instead of 14. Better bet: I had to go with 20 amp GFCI's because code here dictates that a kitchen must have split 15's or a 20 amp GFCI for a wall outlet. You can string multiple outlets AFTER the GFCI and they become GFCI but in a garage, you likely will be running tools that will need most of a full 15 amp. I would buy GFCI's for the outlets as that is much cheaper than using GFCI breakers - at least in Canada. Not sure IF you might be able to install a ground rod at the garage and have that legal. I used 6 gauge and I think that should be fine for 60 amp/50' In my case ( I think yours too) that means four 6 gauge wires (hot/hot/neutral/ground). There are lots of on-line calculators for determining wire gauge. So, if you add 60 on the sub, you only can have 140 on the main breaker. Then, you need to remember that if you have a 200 amp service, 200 amp is all you have including your sub panel. You need to make sure there are 4 open slots on your existing panel for the new 60 amp breaker to go in. 60 amp sub panel should be more than enough for what you are describing. This is needed to make sure that a nearby lightning strike doesn't completely fry the contents of the garage.I just finished doing one for my daughter. Since you are running to a separate structure, you'll need to put in a grounding electrode system at the garage (2 rods 8' apart, with 6AWG bare copper going rod-rod-panel, always works). This makes upgrading to a bigger service to the garage easy (compared to digging up a direct bury cable or pulling wires out of an overstuffed conduit), and also won't leave you tearing your hair out trying to get a reliable termination on AA-1350 (yes, URD is still "old tech" aluminum) wires. Instead, I'd suggest running a trio of #6 copper THHN/THWNs (black, black, white) through a fat conduit (2" Schedule 80 PVC is what I'd use in your shoes). It has one more wire in it than you need (since you haven't hit a service disconnecting means yet, you don't need to separate ground from neutral for this run, and the panel in the garage will be a main panel), and running cables through conduits is a pain in the rump as a general rule, in addition to being rather wasteful of conduit fill. Your problem, though, will be jamming that outsized URD cable down the conduit. but you're making your life harder than it needs to be Service-entrance conductors run to each from a single service drop, set of overhead service conductors, set of underground service conductors, or service lateral. Your configuration is anticipated by NEC 230.40 Exception 3:Įxception No.3: A single-family dwelling unit and itsĪccessory structures shall be permitted to have one set of
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